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TEHRAN INSIDER

'At least we have security': old mantra becomes bitter joke in postwar Iran

Tehran Insider
Tehran Insider

Firsthand reports from contributors inside Iran

Sep 4, 2025, 10:11 GMT+1Updated: 01:38 GMT+0
Chief of Staff of Iran's Armed Forces speaks at an event to commemorate civilians killed by Israeli strikes, Tehran, Iran, August 7, 2025
Chief of Staff of Iran's Armed Forces speaks at an event to commemorate civilians killed by Israeli strikes, Tehran, Iran, August 7, 2025

Life in Iran feels suspended, with many convinced war will return and unable to plan for the future beyond how to endure it when it comes.

At first, though, it did not even look like a war.

On the first day—when Revolutionary Guards commanders and nuclear scientists were killed in Tehran and several buildings destroyed—many assumed Israel had struck and left. Only on the second day did people realize this was a full-on fight.

The ceasefire brought no relief. Few believe it will last, and fear of another round now shapes daily life.

A state-run institute, ISPA, which conducts large-scale surveys, said in its latest poll of Tehran residents that more than 50 percent fear another war, and 15 percent are considering leaving the capital permanently.

Lives on hold

That expectation has deepened the instability already weighing on people’s lives—economic hardship, social strain, legal uncertainty, and now the risk of sudden displacement or death.

Everyone I know, depending on their means, looks for some precaution. For some, an external attack is imagined as the only way to end authoritarian rule; others oppose war because of its destruction.

Either way, the looming threat dictates their choices.

Kids cool down at a park's fountains, Tehran, Iran, August 23, 2025
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Kids cool down at a park's fountains, Tehran, Iran, August 23, 2025

“How have you prepared yourself for the war to start again?” This is the question I often ask when the subject arises, and the answers are revealing.

Those with greater resources look to buy a house or land outside Tehran in safer areas to take refuge in if the fighting resumes.

The usual destinations—northern provinces of Mazandaran and Gilan on the shores of the Caspian Sea—ran out of housing. Existing homes and villas were rented at several times the normal price, leaving many latecomers stranded.

Anywhere but Tehran

When the ceasefire came, my friend’s 69-year-old mother, who is of relative means, began scanning rental ads and leased an apartment for a year in a village in Gilan.

She said she never wanted to relive the despair of those 12 days, when everyone had left and she, her husband, and sons remained in one of Tehran’s most dangerous areas, next to barracks and military bases.

But others told me that, unable to afford a second home or a rental elsewhere, their only option was to stockpile basic food supplies.

People watch rescue workers near a building destroyed by an Israeli strike, Tehran, Iran, Jun 2025
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People watch rescue workers near a building destroyed by an Israeli strike, Tehran, Iran, Jun 2025

Farideh, who lives with her husband and two children in Tehran, has not removed the taped X’s she put on her windows to mitigate shattering from air strikes. She says they will be needed, and there is nothing else she can do.

Saber, 42, who works in tech support, answered that he has packed a backpack with a tent, sleeping bags and essentials so that when war starts, he can grab it and flee anywhere.

‘Keep the tank full’

Those who have a place to go outside the capital are keeping their car’s tank full—always.

“I fill it up before it’s half empty,” says Sina, a personal trainer at an upscale gym. “During the war, I once waited three days for gas and couldn’t leave Tehran. Now anxiety creeps in as the gauge moves down.”

“I know it sounds crazy, but we don’t know when Israel may strike, right?” he exclaims. “It could be any moment.”

And then there are those with no plans at all.

Some can’t bear the thought of another war. They prefer not to prepare, to avoid even greater stress. Others see war as so devastating that any precaution feels absurd.

For years, one phrase was often repeated in response to every shortcoming or protest about the country’s internal situation: “At least we have security.”

Today, that line has become a bitter joke.

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Invisible prisons: how Iran uses electronic shackles to control activists

Sep 3, 2025, 22:02 GMT+1
•
Azadeh Shafiee

Ankle monitors once reserved for criminals in Iran are now imposed on activists, turning what is billed as an alternative to prison into a source of humiliation, financial strain and invisible confinement.

“These devices should be used on thieves and fraudsters, not for a teacher who simply demanded her union rights,” says one teacher and union activist.

She recounts how, in the silence of the night, the short beep of her device awakens her five-year-old daughter—a constant reminder that miles away, someone is watching. Barred from stepping more than a kilometer from her home, she must wear the virtual shackle at all times.

She is one of dozens of teachers, artists, students, writers, members of religious minorities and labor activists who, after months or years in prison, now serve the remainder of their sentences under electronic surveillance.

Their names have been withheld due to the likelihood of official retaliation for telling their stories.

The devices are fastened to the leg and tracked around the clock by Iran’s Prisons Organization. In theory, they modernize punishments and reduce prison costs. In practice, they are applied not only to financial, drug or theft offenders but increasingly to civil and political activists.

Bruised—and paying for it

“I am having to pay just to have a shackle strapped to my leg,” one activist remarks.

For many, the devices are humiliating, painful, and financially crushing. Lawyers describe them as tools of harassment, combining physical restriction with constant control.

The locally manufactured monitors are poorly designed: heavy, sharp-edged and often causing wounds or inflammation.

To add insult to injury, users must pay for their shackle: an upfront fee of about $25 and roughly $9 a month thereafter—sums that weigh heavily on activists who are out of work or barred from working.

An ankle monitor on an Iranian activist who has written "Woman, Life Freedom" - a slogan of 2022 anti-government protests - on her foot
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An ankle monitor on an Iranian activist who has written "Woman, Life Freedom" - a slogan of 2022 anti-government protests - on her foot

Restricted lives

“From the hairdresser to the grocery store, people call me a hero and say: ‘Respect for your courage.’ But I’m glad my mother isn’t alive to see me wearing this shackle,” says a female teacher."

The devices typically restrict movement to a 1,000-meter radius around the home, though the exact distance is determined by a judge. The impact is immediate: disrupted jobs, missed family events, lost opportunities and even obstacles to medical care.

Protest singer Vafa Ahmadpour, known online as Vafadar, announced that he lost the chance to travel to the US as an honorary judge at an arts festival because of his ankle monitor.

Some wearers try to hide the device under socks or trousers to avoid stares. Others leave it visible and say most reactions are sympathetic.

Arbitrary power

Some lawyers say monitors allow prisoners to return to a normal life, but others stress the selective and arbitrary way monitors are used against protesters.

“In other countries, these devices are used for actual financial or violent crimes; but in Iran, they’ve become tools for controlling and humiliating protesters and civil defenders and union activists,” says another.

He notes that law enforcement agencies wield wide discretion in deciding who qualifies and under what conditions—leaving activists especially vulnerable.

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The stigma of ankle monitoring often blocks people from resuming their jobs. Some have even been forced to move homes so their workplace remains within the permitted radius.

“After my release, the school principal said I needed an official letter from the judge to return to teaching,” a teacher explains. “The judge confirmed I wasn’t legally banned from working, but the school still refused to take me back. I suspect the Intelligence Ministry put pressure on them.”

An invisible prison

Another teacher describes the constant anxiety: “Even going for a jog in the park makes me anxious. Once, I stepped outside the boundary. At 6:30 in the morning, they called and threatened to send me back to prison.”

It’s a recurring theme in conversations with those wearing monitors.

“I went out to buy a book I loved. At the intersection, the device beeped—I remembered I wasn’t allowed to cross. I looked at the book with longing and turned back,” says one author.

“The painful part is that only you can see this invisible boundary. Everyone else can cross it—except you.”

“In Shiraz Adelabad Prison, my cellmates were murderers and dangerous criminals. For me, the ankle monitor was a choice between bad and worse,” says a teacher from Shiraz.

For many, the device remains preferable to the harsh conditions of Iran’s prisons—but only barely.

“This is the least we pay for demanding our rights,” one teacher says.

“The ankle monitor has limited my physical movement, but it hasn’t stopped me from thinking and writing,” says another author. “I still write—and that’s something the government can never take away from me.”

Foreign tourist arrivals to Iran plummet 75% after 12-day war, minister says

Sep 3, 2025, 11:09 GMT+1

Foreign arrivals plunged 75 percent since the 12-day war with Israel, Iran’s tourism minister said Wednesday, while international outlets recently reported new visa restrictions imposed by the Islamic Republic.

Reza Salehi Amiri, minister of cultural heritage, tourism and handicrafts, said plans for recovery were underway amid the challenges posed by the war. “The policy we defined for after the recent war is the product of lengthy expert work in the ministry,” he said.

However, he said that recovery was contingent on broader security conditions. “Our forecast is that within the next six months, if stability is defined and threats removed, we can return to our previous program,” he said.

New visa hurdles

Iran’s foreign ministry enacted new restrictions on visitor entry in the wake of the war, the Travel and Tour World website reported last month. The rules ban individual travel, require official contracts with registered agencies, and oblige travelers to provide their hotel bookings and complete itineraries. A licensed guide must accompany tourists throughout their stay.

Visa applicants must also submit résumés, education records, travel history, and links to their social media accounts, with embassy reviews stretching up to three weeks, according to the outlet. In July, other industry websites circulated the same requirements, which took effect on August 1.

Foreign tourists in Iran's Isfahan (Undated)
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Foreign tourists in Iran's Isfahan

According to August figures, arrivals had already fallen 53 percent from the year before, the deputy tourism minister, Anoushirvan Mohseni Bandpey, said, attributing the decline to the 12-day war and what he called a campaign of Iranophobia.

Industry strain

Hotel operators have likewise cited losses. Cancellations in western provinces had reached billions of rials, Jamshid Hamzezadeh, head of Iran’s hoteliers’ association, told state media in July.

“Travel has effectively fallen out of priority in many people’s lives,” he said.

Iran’s hotel industry faces challenges that long predate the war. Inflation and stagnant household incomes had already pushed travel out of reach for many families, concentrating spending on food and housing.

The country has also seen a downturn following international warnings from countries such as the US warning against travel to Iran citing fears of arbitrary detention, especially for dual nationals.

Foreign tourists in Iran
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Foreign tourists in Iran

Salehi Amiri said last year that the ministry was planning to expand accommodation capacity. “We are obliged to open 100 hotels annually,” he said, adding that many of Iran’s 1,430 existing hotels fall short of international standards.

The discussion about building this number of hotels comes while, according to industry officials, the current newly built hotels do not even have the minimum number of guests to cover their expenses.

The newspaper Payam-e Ma criticized Salehi Amiri's remarks. "It would be better, since the minister himself has said that many hotels are not in a position to attract tourists, for the government to focus on standardizing existing hotels instead of opening new ones," he said.

The country, historically known for its rich cultural and historical heritage as well as its natural beauty, has struggled to attract foreign tourists in recent years. Despite its allure, the country faced challenges such as strict dress codes for women and restrictions on alcohol and nightlife.

Data from the Statistical Center of the Islamic Republic shows that the number of incoming tourists to Iran in 2023 was 6.4 million, up from 4.2 million in 2022, when the Woman, Life, Freedom protests rocked the country.

However, before the pandemic, the peak of foreign tourist arrivals to Iran was in 2018 and 2019, with 7.8 million and 8.8 million tourists entering the country, respectively.

Iran conservatives denounce hijab style bloggers as moral threat

Sep 2, 2025, 07:58 GMT+1
•
Maryam Sinaiee

Conservatives in Iran are criticizing hijab style bloggers for undermining Islamic femininity, promoting vanity and luring religious women away from traditional dress.

Rasekhoon, a youth-focused online outlet promoting Islamic values, seethed about the trend in a column last week as an inversion of the hijab's purported main purpose: modesty.

"(The bloggers) appear to observe the basic requirements of Islamic hijab, yet simultaneously seek attention and align themselves with global beauty standards," read an editorial on the outlet.

"They do so with bright colors, modern cuts, heavy makeup and a wide array of accessories.”

The publication argued that this emphasis on attractiveness erodes the spiritual purpose of the hijab and encourages visibility over modesty.

Internet-friendly modeling, it added, undermines the spiritual purpose of the hijab with its emphasis on attractiveness and drawing attention and visibility.

Conservative protesters demand hijab enforcement outside Iran's parliament
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Conservative protesters demand hijab enforcement outside Iran's parliament

“Hijab-style influencers are the front-line soldiers of the cultural war, pushing religious and spiritual practices toward decadence,” Razieh Jabbari, a hijab activist, told the Revolutionary Guards-linked Tasnim News Agency last week.

“Behind these individuals stand think tanks seeking to alter religious lifestyles and appearances, trivialize our cultural and spiritual values, and promote a version of ‘American-approved Islam’,” she said.

Historically, the Islamic Republic has promoted the chador—a long black veil covering the entire body—as the ideal dress code for women.

Not popular

While officials often claim widespread support for Islamic veiling, only a minority, perhaps around 15 percent, wear the chador consistently.

According to a 2022 survey by independent research group GAMAAN, over 70 percent of men and women opposed mandatory hijab laws.

hija
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hija

“The professionalized style promoted by hijab bloggers has even managed to influence the tastes of part of the population who is religious and believes in hijab, encouraging them to replace the traditional chador with long, modest manteaus,” the Jam-e Jam newspaper wrote.

This year, during the Arbaeen Walk to the shrines of Shia Imams in Iraq, hijab-style bloggers produced a flood of content. According to critics, “Their aim is to reduce grand ceremonies from a ‘spiritual and revolutionary event’ to a mere ‘spectacle—shallow and superficial,” Jabbari told Tasnim.

In Iran, the hijab functions not only as a religious observance but also as a political symbol tied to the state’s identity. Since 1979, the legally required hijab has been presented as a marker of revolutionary authenticity and resistance to Western influence.

For hardliners, enforcing the hijab validates the Islamic system, while opposition is framed as a challenge to state authority.

Women’s clothing has thus become a recurring political battleground, where debates over morality, freedom and national sovereignty converge.

Since the death of Mahsa Amini in September 2022, Iranian women have persistently defied the state's compulsory hijab laws, transforming personal acts of resistance into a powerful political statements.

In Tehran and other urban centers, going unveiled has become more common, although most women still carry scarves for public offices, banks or transport to avoid confrontation. Few dress entirely as they wish; most compromise with long sleeves and modest skirts while avoiding sleeveless tops, shorts or short skirts.

In May, Iran’s Supreme National Security Council shelved a new hardline bill mandating stricter hijab rules, likely to avoid a public backlash.

While enforcement has not disappeared, but reports of women facing harassment, including fines and impounding of their vehicles, are not as common as before.

Iran government says vets applicant social media for ideological compliance

Sep 1, 2025, 17:38 GMT+1

A senior official overseeing hiring for government positions in Iran has acknowledged that authorities examine applicants’ social media accounts, particularly Instagram, as part of ideological vetting for government and public-sector positions.

Traditional background checks had lost effectiveness, prompting reliance on online activity, Mohammad Shahab Jalilvand, secretary of the High Selection Board, said in an interview aired on state television on Monday.

“Those with public pages and significant numbers of followers publish a personality of themselves on social media,” he said.

Authorities cannot monitor private messaging apps such as Telegram and WhatsApp, Jalilvand added.

Screening criticized

The Islamic Republic requires prospective employees, particularly in education and government, to undergo examinations of their political and religious views.

One of the most controversial areas has been the recruitment of teachers under the Ministry of Education. In recent years, reports have described intrusive questioning and discriminatory rejection of candidates.

Between three and six thousand applicants were barred from teaching jobs in late 2023 on political and religious grounds, according to the Coordinating Council of Teachers’ Union.

The vetting practices coincide with a broader tightening of online regulation. In January 2025, the Supreme Council of Cyberspace approved a resolution advertised as easing restrictions but in practice expanded surveillance. It empowered the government, judiciary and ministry of culture to police the online content and curb the VPNs.

Authorities have paired such measures with tactical enforcement. Internet shutdowns, such as during protests, and the deactivation of SIM cards belonging to activists and journalists, have become routine.

Surveillance tools are also deployed to enforce the mandatory hijab. Cameras and electronic readers have been used to identify women not donning the Islamic covering, with threatening messages sent not only to the women but to their families.

Iranian camel riders set for debut at overseas competition

Sep 1, 2025, 13:43 GMT+1

Iran will send camel riders to an international competition for the first time, after its sports authorities approved participation in the Islamic Solidarity Games slated for November in Saudi Arabia, the head of the country’s rural and nomadic sports federation said on Monday.

Alireza Pasandideh, who leads the Federation of Rural and Nomadic Sports and Indigenous Games, said the Ministry of Sports and Iran’s National Olympic Committee had granted permission for the camel racing team to attend.

“Two athletes, a man and a woman, will travel to compete,” he told Iran’s ISNA news agency.

Camel racing is one of the listed disciplines at the Islamic Solidarity Games, which bring together athletes from members of the Organization of Islamic Cooperation.

He added that four Iranian camel riders had been invited to an international training camp in Abu Dhabi in October to prepare athletes for the Asian Youth Games in Bahrain. The camp, organized by the World Federation of Camel Racing, will be held in October.